High above the city and the ancient Citadel, listen as Amman reveals its past. Known in the Old Testament as Rabbath-Amon and in Graeco-Roman times as Philadelphia, this strategic area was settled or crossed by a restless cast of characters. Ammonites, Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantine, Umayyads, and Crusaders are among the more familiar.

Inside the Citadel, study the traces of Amman's many lives: the regal columns of a Roman temple in silhouette against the sky, the elegant capital of a Byzantine church, endlessly inventive carvings in the Umayyad Palace, and digs and ruins everywhere you step. At the foot of the Citadel, take a seat in the Roman Theatre, a deep-side bowl carved into the hill and still used for cultural events.

Experience, too, the modern Jordan, founded by King Abdullah in the wake of World War I. King Hussein, Abdullah's grandson, has ruled as constitutional monarch for more than forty years, achieving remarkable measure of peace, stability, and economic growth.

For a glimpse of recent history, take a ride on the Hijaz Railway. This famous train was repeatedly sabotaged by the Arab troops of Sherif Faisal and Lawrence of Arabia to defeat the Ottomans. While the days of Lawrence are gone, the railway retains its sentimental appeal. Several times a year, you can climb aboard for a lavish party, travelling from Amman to the edge of the desert.

In a quiet vein, wander through Jebel Amman's Rainbow Street past lovely turn-of the-century villas. Stroll through the city's shop and suqs (markets). Pause in the coffee houses for a game of backgammon, or savour the sweets and mezzeh (appetizers) of traditional Jordanian cuisine. Above all, as a privileged n honored guest, delight in the friendship of the Jordanian people and the heritage and beauty of their land.

Location and Geography: Jordan is a relatively small country situated at the junction of the levantine and Arabian areas of the Middle East. It is bordered by Syria (to the north), Iraq (to the east), Saudi Arabia (to the east and south), and Israel and the Palestine National Authority (to the west). Jordan’s only outlet to the sea lies to the south at the Gulf of Aqaba.

The country can be divided into three main areas: The Jordan Valley, the Mountain Heights Plateau and the eastern desert (or Badia region), each with its own distinctive geology and climatic conditions. Distance within the country are relatively short: only 450km from Ramtha in the north to Aqaba in the south, and only 130km from the capital Amman to Azraq in the east.

Climate: Western Jordan, home to some of the country’s most interesting tourist destinations, enjoys a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and comparatively cool, moist winters, flanked by fine springs and autumns. The eastern part, about 80per cent of the county is more arid with less than 200mm of rain annually.

Language: Arabic is Jordan's official language, but English is widely spoken, especially in the cities. French, German, Italian and Spanish are also spoken, but to a much lesser extent.

Visas: A visa is required for anybody entering Jordan, details of which are determined according to nationality. Visas may be obtained from Jordanian embassies and consulates all over the world.

Visas may also be obtained on arrival at Amman's Queen Alia International Airport. Payment must be in local currency. Foreign exchange services are available in the arrival hall. Visas are valid for two weeks, but can be extended on request for a total of up to three months without charge. Visitors entering overland should obtain their visas in advance, as not all nationalities may be permitted entry at any given border crossing at any given time.

Local Time: Jordan is three hours ahead of GMT throughout the year.

Water: Potable water is a precious resource in Jordan. However, hotels rated three-star or better have their own water filtering systems (their water is considered safe to drink) and bottled water is cheap and readily available.

Electricity:  Jordan's electrical system is based on 220 AC volts, 50 cycles, and requires rounded two-prong wall plugs. North American appliances require a transformer which some hotels can provide.

Money (Currency and Exchange):  The country's monetary unit is the Jordanian Dinar (JD); it is divided into 100 piasters or 1,000 fils. Currency may be exchanged at any bank, currency exchanges at most hotels. The exchange rate against the US dollar, steady throughout the 1990s,was JD 0.71=US$1 at the time of going to press. There are no restrictions on the import and export of Jordanian or foreign currencies.

Walking: Jordan is safe and friendly place to travel, and it is enjoyable to stroll through the old souqs of Amman and the other major cities. The people are unfailingly helpful and it is generally safe to walk around at any time of the day or night. It is, of course, sensible to take obvious precautions: look after your belongings and keep valuables in the hotel safe. Lost property should be reported to the police. If you lose your passport, you should contact your embassy.

Alcohol

Alcohol is served in the restaurants and bars of most hotels in Jordan's main cities. It may also be purchased in some supermarkets and shops. Locally brewed beer is available, as are excellent wines made in Jordan. Araq, similar in taste to Greek Ouzo, is also made locally and is drunk with water and ice.

Shopping: Handicraft and gifts shops are found in most shopping centers and in hotels. Shopping hours are flexible. Some are open from 9.30-13.30 and 15.30-18.00.

Other may be open long hours, from 8.00-20.00. Many shops close on Fridays, but the Suq does not.