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AMMAN

A sprawling city spread over 19 hills, or jebels, Amman is the modern, as well as the ancient capital of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Known as Rabbath-Ammon during prehistoric periods and later as Philadelphia, the ancient city that was once part of the population of around league now boats a population of around 1.5 million.

Amman is a busy commercial and administrative center with many fine hotels, restaurants, art galleries and museums. Shopping amenities vary from old markets and souqs full of gold and spices, to modern boutiques offering local handicrafts and imported fashions.

Towering above Amman, the site of the earliest fortifications is now subject to numerous excavations which have revealed remains from the Neolithic period, as well as from the Hellenistic and late Roman to Arab Islamic Ages. The site, which is known as the Citadel, includes many structures such as the temple of Hercules, the Omayyad Palace and the Byzantine church. At the foot of the Citadel lies the 6,000-seat Roman Theatre which is a deep-sided bowl carved into the hill and still used for cultural events. Another newly resorted theatre is the 500-seat Odeon, which is used for concerts. Three museums found in the area offer a glimpse of history and culture- the Jordan Archaeological Museum, the Folklore Museum and the Museum of Popular Tradition.

Amman is an excellent base from which to explore the environs and many interesting half-or full-day trips can be arranged. The ancient town of Salt and the traditional villages of Fuheis and Kan Zaman, for example, are less than an hour away and feature traditional restaurants, handicraft complexes and picturesque streets from ancient times.

MADABA AND MOUNT NEBO

The trip south from Amman along the 5,000-year-old king’s Highway is one of the most memorable journeys in the Holy Land, passing through a string of ancient sites. The first city to encounter is Madaba, Known as the City of Mosaics. Best known for its spectacular Byzantine and Umayyad mosaic, the city is also home to the famous sixth century mosaic map of Jerusalem and the Holy Land. With two million pieces of colored stone, the map depicts hills and valleys, villages and towns as far as the Nile Delta. Other mosaic masterpieces found in the Church of the Virgin, the Church of the Apostles and the Archaeological Museum depict a vivid profusion of flowers and plants, birds and fish, animals and exotic beasts, as well as scenes from mythology and everyday pursuits of hunting, fishing and farming. Literally hundreds of other mosaics from the fifth to seventh centuries and scattered throughout Madaba’s churches and homes.

Ten minutes to the west is the most revered site in Jordan: Mount Nebo, the memorial to Moses and the presumed site of the prophet’s death and burial. A small church, built on the hill in the fourth century to commemorate the sacred spot, was expanded substantially about 200 years later and contains a stunning collection of Byzantine Mosaics.

ZERQA MA’IN

South-west of Madaba, on the way to the Dead Sea, are the thermal springs of Zerqa Ma’in and Zara, where people have come for thermal treatments-or simply to enjoy a hot soak-since the days of the Roman Empire. What better way to end a day immersed in history than in a wonderful naturally warm bath?

JERASH AND NORTHERN JORDAN

A close second to Petra on the list of favorite destinations in Jordan, the ancient city of Jerash boasts an unbroken chain of human occupation dating back more than 6,500 years.

The city’s golden age came under Roman rule and the site is now generally acknowledged to be one of the best-preserved Roman provincial towns in the world. Hidden for centuries in sand before being excavated and resorted over the past 70 years, Jerash is a fine example of the grand, formal and provincial Roman towns found throughout the Middle East, comprising paved and colonnaded streets, soaring hilltop temples, spectacular theatres, spacious public squares and plazas, baths, fountains and city walls pierced by towers and gates. Beneath its external Graeco-Roman veneer, Jerash also preserves a subtle blend of East and West. Its architecture, religion and languages reflect a process by which two powerful cultures meshed and coexisted: the Graeco-Roman world of the Mediterranean basin and the ancient traditions of the Arab Orient.

A short journey west from Jerash through pine forests and olive groves, brings you to the castle of Ajloun which was built in 1184 by the nephew of Saladin, who defeated the Crusaders in 1187. A fine example of Islamic architecture, the fortress dominated a wide stretch of the north Jordan Valley and passages to it. From its hilltop position, the castle protected the communications routes between south Jordan and Syria.

In addition to Jerash and Amman, Gadara (now Umm Qais) and Pella (now Tabaqat Fahil) were once Decapolis cities, and each has a unique appeal. Famous for the biblical story of Gadarene Swine, Umm Qais was renowned in its time as a cultural center. Perched on a splendid hilltop overlooking the Jordan Valley and the sea of Galilee, Umm Qais boasts impressive ancient remains, such as the stunning black basalt theatre, the basilica and adjacent courtyard strewn with carved black sarcophagi, the colonnaded main street and a side street lined with shops, an underground mausoleum, two baths, a city gate and the faint outlines of what was a massive hippodrome.

DESERT CASTLES

Jordan’s desert castles, beautiful examples of both early Islamic art and architecture, stand testament to a fascinating era in the country’s rich history. Their fine mosaics, frescoes, stone and stucco carvings and illustrations, inspired by the best in Persian and the Graeco-Roman tradition tell countless stories of life as it was between the fifth and eighth centuries.

Referred to as castles because of their imposing stature, the desert complexes actually served various purposes as caravan stations, agriculture and trade centers, resort pavilions and outposts that helped distant rules to forge ties with local Bedouin.

Desert Castles

Several of these preserved compounds, all of which are clustered to the east and south of Amman, can be visited on one or two-day excursions from the city.

Quasair Amra, one of the best preserved castles, is an Unesco world heritage site. Its interior walls and ceilings are covered with lively frescoes, while two of the rooms are paved with colorful mosaics.

Quasair Mushatta, Qasr Al-Kharrana, Qasr Attuba and Qasr Al-Hallabat have been resorted and are all in excellent condition. The black basalt fort at Azraq, in continuous use since Roman times, was the headquarters of Lawrence of Arabic during the Arab Revolt.

PETRA DANA AZRAQ WADI RUM THE DEAD SEA THE GULF OF AQABA